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After talking about New Orleans for the better part of two weeks, I’m finally ready to cap it all of with a full guide to the city! If you’ve been following along, you’ve already heard me share that I’ve been going to NOLA at least two or three times a year since I was 21. That has turned into so many amazing opportunities to get to know the city and I’ve put a lot of thought into this guide because of it. I want to get you out of the French Quarter and explore!

Where To Stay:

• Ace Hotel (Warehouse District): Starting from the ground floor, and all the way to the rooftop, no detail was left unnoticed. Even if you don’t stay here, you can still enjoy a meal at Josephine Estelle, their onsite restaurant that is home to two James Beard Award nominated chefs. Non-guests can also enjoy Alto, their rooftop pool and bar, which is a great way to escape the NOLA heat.
• Henry Howard Hotel (Lower Garden District): Originally built in 1867, the Henry Howard Hotel has all of the charm you would except from this city. Housed in a Greek revival stunner, the sweeping front porches are just begging to be sat on for an afternoon. Inside, you’ll find exclusive New Orleans toile and lots of inspiration from the city’s musical culture.
• Hotel Peter and Paul (Marigny): I cannot wait to stay here on my next trip to NOLA. So much love has been put into restoring this set of buildings and I think it completely captures the spirit of the city: to protect the past and embrace the future. Once owned by the Catholic Church, the hotel was originally a school, convent, rectory, and church. Don’t be fooled though, 150 years of history have been merged with traditional, southern hospitality to make a truly unique experience.
• Hotel Monteleone (French Quarter): Of all the hotels in the French Quarter, this one is my absolute favorite! Originally opened in 1886, it is still owned and operated by the Monteleone family. This place is an absolute icon and seems to be the very heart of the neighborhood. If you have a passion for American literature, many of our country’s greatest writers shared a love for the Hotel Monteleone too. William Faulkner, Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, and Tennessee Williams all have suites named after them for being such distinguished guests.

What To Do:

• Find good music almost anywhere: Music runs through the soul of this city and it would be criminal if you didn’t make it a priority on your trip! Sometimes it seems like good music pops out of thin air, but keep your ears open and let them guide you. Overall, Frenchman Street is a pretty good place to start (see The Spotted Cat and Snug Harbor), but there are a lot of other venue gems scattered around the city. Personal favorites are Preservation Hall (French Quarter) and Tipitina’s (East Riverside).
• Ride the streetcar: Thanks to the movie, A Streetcar Named Desire, many are already familiar with the public transportation around the city. One of the main lines, St. Charles, is actually the oldest streetcar line in the world, operating since 1835. With a stop on Canal Street, it’s an easy way to get to the glamorous houses of the Garden District from the French Quarter and Warehouse District. At $1.25 per trip, it’s a much cheaper and scenic way of getting around than an Uber.
• Float on the Steamboat Natchez: Touristy? Maybe, but I can’t think of an afternoon better spent than being on the water to learn about the history of the city. In so many different ways, New Orleans wouldn’t be anything near what it is today without the Mississippi River. If you’ve already been to the city, then I’m sure you’re already familiar with the steamboat’s signature calliope, which plays tunes all throughout the day.
• Be in town for a Saints game: You don’t have to even go to the game to enjoy this weekly ritual. The entire city absolutely comes alive and there is celebration as far as the eye can see. Everyone will be dressed in their Sunday best (all black and gold), ready to cheer Geaux Saints or Who Dat! If the Saints win, then the celebration gets to continue on!
• Take a ghost tour: Notoriously known a one of the USA’s most haunted cities, taking a ghost tour is an absolute must for first timers. New Orleans is a city that fully embraces this notoriety and it is almost as part of the culture as music and food. Hotel Monteleone, yes one of my hotel picks, has some noteworthy haunts, but that’s hard to escape in a city as old as this one.

Where To Eat:

• Cochon & Cochon Butcher (Central Business District): Two amazing restaurants right next door to each other, both at different price points. Both establishments take high quality meats and bring them to the next level with a Cajun and Southern flair. Cochon Butcher is much more laidback, counter service kind of place, but equally as impressive.
• Willa Jean (Central Business District): Southern-inspired dishes and biscuits that just won’t quit are what bring me back to Willa Jean on every NOLA visit. Classic dishes are made with a twist from Chef Kelly Fields, who has a number of accolades under her belt. Being a bakery, as well a restaurant, don’t pass on their Willa Jean Cornbread with cane syrup or the Griddled Banana Breath. Both are simple treats, but personal favorites.
• Antoine’s (French Quarter): 179 years may seem like an eternity, but Antoine’s is absolutely timeless. The oldest restaurant in all of New Orleans, and the oldest family-run restaurant in the country, this creole institution needs to be on your bucket list. If you don’t feel like adhering to their dress code, you can opt for a meal at their Hermes Bar, right next door. There, you can still order their Oysters Rockefeller, which they invented, and the best bread pudding I’ve ever had for dessert.
• Brennan’s (French Quarter): This restaurant, another city institution, is just around the corner from Antoine’s in the Instagram-worthy bright pink building with green striped awning. The Brennan family name is all over the city at some of the most noteworthy restaurants, such as Commander’s Palace. Brennan’s is, in a word, breath-taking! Whimsical pink and green details can be found throughout, matching the exterior, after a recent 2014 renovation. This restaurant annually earns some of the highest honors in the food world, so plan your reservation well in advance. If you could only order one thing from their perfected menu, make sure it’s the Banana Foster. It was invited here in 1951 and has been a city staple ever since.
• Willie Mae’s Scotch House (Treme): If you’re like me and love to watch the Travel Channel, then I’m sure you’ve heard this restaurant named several times. For over 50 years, they’ve been serving “American’s Best Fried Chicken” and have the awards to prove it. Lines begin forming almost as soon as the restaurant opens, so come early and come hungry. New Orleans is a city where you should temporarily forget your diet and indulge in this juicy fried chicken and mouth watering sides.
• Cafe du Monde (French Quarter): This NOLA staple is a good choice 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Literally! In its 157 year history, it’s only been closed for a total of two months due to Hurricane Katrina. Besides that, they’ve been open continuously, and I’ve enjoyed their cafe au lait and beignet combo at almost every time slot. Beignets are similar to a donut, deep-friend dough that has been drowned in powder sugar. Their coffee is unique and has a distinct taste that comes from a blending of chicory and is synonymous with the city. Whatever time you decide to enjoy Cafe du Monde is a good time to sit back and enjoy this historic cafe.

What To Drink:

• Carousel Bar (French Quarter): The name pretty much says it all. The Carousel Bar is located in the Hotel Monteleone and is the only rotating bar in the French Quarter. Their signature drink is the Vieux Carre, but if you’re not into whiskey, you can’t go wrong with the Fleur de Lis, a refreshing, gin based drink also created there. With a menu of impeccable drinks, it’s a great spot to grab a cocktail and spin the day away.
• Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (French Quarter): By looking at its weathered exterior, it really shouldn’t come as a surprise that Lafitte’s is known as the oldest bar in the country. Standing since 1722, apart from a few modern drink makers and a juke box, little seems to have changed. Always dimly lit, my favorite feature is the piano towards the back of the bar. Every night a piano player tickles the ivories by candlelight. It’s almost romantic and leaves me strangely nostalgic for a time when life was much simpler.
• Napoleon House (French Quarter): Almost as soon as I step foot in the French Quarter, this is always my first destination. Originally offered as a sanctuary for Napoleon Bonaparte by the once mayor of New Orleans, this bar has worn many hats including home, grocery, speakeasy, and restaurant. This establishment prides itself on a relaxed atmosphere and boasts the best muffuletta sandwiches in town. Here is also where you will find their take on a Pimm’s Cup. Always refreshing on a hot, summer day, it’s my absolute favorite cocktail in the city.
• The Old Absinthe House (French Quarter): A lot of history has wandered through this 200 year old bar. Although it’s located in the heart of party-central on Bourbon Street, you won’t find any daiquiri machines here. Instead, the number one drink on the menu is, well, absinthe. As far as drinks go, I think this one sort of has a bad rep. The modern day version is incredibly toned down from what you may infamously have read in history books. Although the licorice-like taste is not for everyone, watching the drink be prepared is an experience. The bar’s original absinthe frappe could also make for a great middle ground.
• Barrel Proof (Lower Garden District): In a windowless shop with a hardly a sign in sight, it’s really easy to walk by this whiskey bar in the Lower Garden District. Don’t pass this place by! While this bar has only been around since 2014, the building itself has been a bar for as long as anyone can remember. Inside, you will find a woodsy, inviting space with a long list of cocktails, beers, and whiskeys. They like to describe themselves as unpretentious and I think that’s just about the best way to describe any great neighborhood bar.
• Mammoth Espresso (Central Business District): If you need to pause for a second to swap cocktails for coffee, a stroll to this little cafe is absoutely worth it. New Orleans, overall, has a really great coffee culture, so you can’t really go wrong with any of the local shops around town. I also love French Trunk Coffee, Spitfire Coffee, and Revelator Coffee. For me, what sets Mammoth apart is their variety of pour-overs and coffee-inspired speciality drinks.

So, I’ve written nearly 2,000 words on the city of New Orleans and that’s no where near enough to share my love and passion for this town. Visiting the Crescent City is truly what you make of it. If you decide to just party it up on Bourbon Street, I promise you’ll have a great time, but will sadly miss out on the soul of this city. For just over 300 years, New Orleans has been a city to be yourself and enjoy life’s pleasures. Here’s to 300 more!

Love from NYC,
Katie