KATIE KENNEDY

City Guide: Tarpon Springs

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Nestled right next to my hometown of Palm Harbor is the charming Tarpon Springs. It’s a really special place that also happens to have the highest percentage of Greek Americans in the entire country. Because of that, I grew up with several Greek friends and got to really experience their culture. I have to say, I have been down right spoiled and have high standards when it comes to Greek food. Over the weekend, I convinced David to take a quick day trip. It may only be a few miles up the road from where I grew up, but it seemed like we escaped to the Greek isles.

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Local History

In the early 1900s, the sponging industry began to boom in Tarpon Springs. This brought a wave of recruits from the Greek isles, where they had perfected the art of sponge diving. The town began to grow, but in 1947, a wave of red tide killed off a huge portion of sponges and the local spongers had to switch to shrimping. Today, Tarpon Springs is once again the world leader in natural sponges and that Greek tradition remains. Turning onto Dodecanese Blvd (note the street signs in Greek) takes you right into the heart of the Sponge Docks where you can soak in Greek-American culture at it’s best.

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How To Get There

• While Tarpon Spring doesn’t have its own airport, both Tampa and St. Pete airports are about 30 minutes away.
• If you are visiting the Tampa Bay Area, and want to explore the smaller towns and beaches, you’re going to need to rent a car. We just don’t have enough public transportation to quickly get you where you want to go.
• The major highway, US 19 runs right next to Tarpon Springs. If you are northbound, turn left on Tarpon Ave and turn right on Pinellas Ave. You will run right into the quaint downtown and historic district.

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Where To Eat

• Hellas: This Greek restaurant has become a local icon since opening in the 70s. I have been eating here since I was a kid and I swear it hasn’t changed in anyway since. Go inside and you’ll be greeted by friendly staff and ambient Greek music. The menu has a full spread of Greek dishes that are all equally delicious. The are best known for their gyros (which are absolutely ginormous), but my favorite is the pastitsio. Think of it as a lasagna-like dish, with a slightly unexpected flavor of spices.
• Rusty Bellies: If you’re not in the mood for Greek food, but still want to enjoy local cuisine, this is the spot for you! Since it’s right on the Anclote River, you’ll be guaranteed great views of the water and some of the freshest local shrimp you can find. It has become a favorite with the locals and is always a good time.
• Mr. Souvlaki: This is another Greek restaurant that I’ve been eating at since childhood. Although it has your standard Greek fare, it has one special dish that really sets it apart… Greek Chow Mein! It sounds odd, but may be one of my ‘last meals.’ It’s a glorious bowl with rice, red sauce, and grilled peppers, all covered with a very healthy portion of feta cheese. Try it once and I promise you’ll be hooked!

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Where To Sip

• Local Breweries: Just like with so many other towns in the Tampa Bay Area, Tarpon Springs has become a mini hotspot for local microbreweries. Although it doesn’t have the huge number like St. Pete or Dunedin, there is still a great selection. Currently on the scene, you have Five Branches, Saint Somewhere, Silverking, and Two Frogs. Give all of them a try with a little brewery hop.
• Hellas Bakery: Right next to their restaurant, the Hellas Bakery is what really brings back childhood memories. No trip to Tarpon Springs is complete with a slice of their baklava. If you need a pick-me-up, wash it gown with an iced Frappe coffee. It’s similar to a Frappuccino, but without the milk. If you need something stronger, traditional Greek coffee is effective, but not for the lighthearted.
• Mama Maria’s: This is one final Greek restaurant on my list. While their food is top notch, I’m more interested in their wine menu. Greek wine, similar to the coffee, packs quite a punch. This is particularly true for Mavrodaphne. It’s a dark, very sweet red wine that just so happens to pair perfectly with Greek cuisine. Trust me when I say a little goes a long way. I know from personal experience.

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What To Do

• Wander the Sponge Docks: There’s not a huge list of things to do in Tarpon, but my favorite activity is to wander the historic Sponge Docks. There are several boutiques and shops, most offering local sponges caught right in the river and different Greek cultural pieces.
• Celebrate the Epiphany: Arguably, the biggest holiday in Tarpon Springs is the Epiphany. Traditionally, it is a several day event to celebrate Jesus’ baptism. Every January, young Greek boys and their families gather in Spring Bayou to dive after a blessed cross. The boy who brings back the cross will have good fortune for the rest of the year. What follows is a huge Greek celebration, with all of the food you can possible handle.
• Take a Boat Tour: I normally don’t condone boat tours. Sometimes they get gimmicky very quickly. However, I’ll make an exception for the St. Nicholas Boat Line. About every 40 minutes, they offer a tour right from the Sponge Docks to give you a firsthand lesson into the sponging industry.

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While a plain ticket to Athens can be very costly, it’s nice to know that there is a tiny slice of Greece right in my own backyard. If you are making your way to Tampa Bay, this charming little town definitely deserves your attention!

Love from Florida,
Katie

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